Mist rolled over the mountains this morning like dragon’s breath as we cruised out of Telegraph Cove. Within minutes of our trip we saw our first blow of a humpback whale while watching several mature and immature bald eagles. We were able to identify the two humpbacks with the help of our on board naturalist, Kyle who referenced the MERS Humpback ID catalog (www.mersociety.org).
The first whale identified was ‘Argonaut’ and the other was ‘Slits’. Argonaut is so named as it has what looks like a capital ‘A’ etched into the left underside of it’s fluke. Slits is a newcomer on the scene, having been first spotted last year. Both whales appeared to be ‘logging’ i.e. spending lots of surface time resting and short dives of 6-8 minutes.
At times Dall’s porpoises were all over the whales, leaping around them. The Dall’s porpoises were numerous and very active bow and wake riding the boat. It was quite the sight.
Rhinoceros auklets and murres were some of the other alluring avians we saw today. We even saw a small black tailed deer feeding high on the edge of a cliff.
Our afternoon sailing was a glorious combination of moody fog and brilliant sunshine with the animals providing us with tantalising glimpses into their worlds. Dall’s porpoises were repeat offenders and came along wake riding the Lukwa. The mist rolled in again and we initially tried to find ‘whales by braille’. By this, we took our time and listened carefully to the characteristic resonant sound the humpbacks make when they breathe on the surface.
The fog, thankfully, was not meant to be. We made our way towards the ever increasing blue and entered Blackney Pass. The water whirled and fumed as we sailed through, churning up all sorts of small creatures in it’s fury. Two whales were found to be capitalizing on this bounty, feeding furiously in the maelstrom. The two seen were identified by Sophia our naturalist as ‘KC’ and ‘Guardian’. KC had been spotted approx.40km south yesterday so it made it all the more special to see this whale. We spent an hour here watching these behemoths weave their way through this whirlpool. An unexpected guest also joined the goodness and happened to be a minke whale which is known as ‘Bolt’. Bolt has been seen in this area since 2000.
Our guests were thrilled to see such a prolonged and wonderful sight of these whales feeding and diving. One couple called Phil and Tania from Gloucester, England fulfilled their dreams by seeing these gentle giants wild and free. Glaucous winged gulls, young and older sat and flew over the riffled water, unperturbed by all the activity around them.
At Weynton Island, a couple of harbour seals were precariously balanced on rocks. As we made our way back towards home, the wildlife kicked off in earnes. Two Steller sea lions roared in the kelp, as some beautiful bald eagles flew above them. Two more humpbacks appeared close by, providing us with ample opportunities to observe and photograph them. Slits was one of the two seen again. We wrapped up our trip with a glorious cruise back to port. Life is good!
A mysterious and beautiful sea fog unfurled before us as we sailed through the Sounds this morning. In the gloom a whale could be heard breathing. It appeared briefly before heading to fathoms unknown. Within half an hour, the fog lifted to reveal the snow-capped mountains and dense forests. Three Dall’s porpoises were seen bow riding in the straits. Around the Plumper islands, over 60 seals were seen lolling about on the rocks and in thewater due to the low tide. Unusually enough, a group of Harlequin ducks were nestled in the rocks close to the seals. Another humpback whale was seen slowly surfacing. On seeing its fluke, our on board naturalist Kyle was able to identify it as ‘KC’ which is short
for ‘Kelp creature’. This whale got its name from being found as a calf in 2002, rolling around in the kelp! Today, it appeared doing a great log impression as it was moving slowly along, taking shallow dives and remaining close to the water surface. Off Stubbs Island over 20 bald eagles were observed feeding in the rip tide.
The glorious weather continued as wecruised out for our afternoon trip. The Dall’s porpoises came back to our
delight. They swam amongst various species of birds which included bald eagles and rhinoceros auklets. Pigeon guillemots ducked ahead of us, while young salmon or smolt leapt like pieces of silver out of the water.
The fog rolled back on in, but word of a large pod of Pacific white sided dolphins bolstered our spirits. Within moments we were surrounded by a bucking, flashing, whizzing pod all around us. We gasped and squealed in delight as the dolphins enveloped us along with the fog. Surrounded on all sides, hundreds of dolphins entranced us with an incredible display of acrobatics and bow riding.
According to Captain Wayne, for every dolphin we saw surface, approx. five dolphins were below. That was giving us numbers of at least 500!
Conger, a humpback which has been seen every year in this area site since 2009 was nexton the scene. Alison, our naturalist on board was able to identify it for us. We watched it glide effortlessly through the shallows.
We were also very lucky to observe a lunge feed. We had the advantage of seeing its white pectoral fin through the crystal clear water. This made it easy to track it’s movements as it fed.
‘KC’ showed up again near Cracroft point in Johnstone Strait. True to its name, it was seen with a strand of kelp draped across its face on surfacing! The fog was well and truly gone at this point. The sun and the scenery continued to deliver as we returned, well fed with wildlife images that would continue to endure.
The eagles were out in force this afternoon! Sailing towards Blackfish Sound we saw some young bald eagles and adults sitting amongst the trees and flying forth. Rhinoceros auklets swam in tight groups. A brief spotting of a Steller sea lion in the kelp provided our first marine mammal view of the day. Its cousins, a couple of harbour seals were hauled out nearby. Young salmon or smolt were jumping out of the water around us. It is believed that this could be anti-predator behaviour but also potentially practice for their future epic travels!
Our excitement built as the first humpback whale of the day was spied from afar. It was identified as ‘Black Pearl’ by our on board naturalist, Kyle. Dall’s porpoises appeared quickly on the scene and started to splash and bow ride around the boat. The porpoises approached the whale and no sooner had the sleepy whale surfaced it trumpeted, perhaps in annoyance at the inquisitive intruders!
The weather continued to improve as we cruised along and the sea was still and calm. We were extremely lucky to see two harbour porpoises swim to the stern of the boat, cruising in our wake. Around the Whitecliff islands we had a gorgeous view of a bald eagle in the sunshine while across on another rock we saw a black oystercatcher.
On our approach to Stubbs Island, more whale activity was observed. At least one whale was seen which appeared to be moving slowly and doing many shallow dives. Captain Wayne dubbed this whale ‘Sleeper’ for the day due to its languid, leisurely dives. Black Pearl made another appearance on our return through the Johnstone Strait and gave us a wonderful view of its fluke as it dove down ahead of us.
At the Plumper Islands a large eagle’s nest with an adult sitting guard was seen high up in the trees. Down below a skittish seal slid into the water while its more laid back counterpart eyed us circumspectly. A pigeon guillemot made a brief appearance before making a dash for the deep. Our trip had an exciting end to it with a couple of super fast Dall’s porpoises speeding in front and behind the boat!
The morning’s trip was full of wildlife to excite and delight us. Our first encounter was with a few Dall’s porpoise which swam parallel to us. Around the Plumper Islands a big bait ball attracted the attention of a flock of bald eagles. They swooped and dove in amongst the fish. The trees were so densely packed with eagles that according to captain Wayne, it looked like a snow covered Christmas tree with all the bald heads. Harbour seals were seen at two haul out points as we cruised by.
As we continued on our way the air was punctuated with the sound of humpback whales breathing near and far from us. The air was still and calm and their sonorous sounds echoed through Blackfish Sound. Our on board naturalist Kyle was able to identify the whales. Horizon was the first whale spotted of the day, followed by Black Pearl and Cutter. Conger was seen on the way back in to port.
The whales made their presence felt on the afternoon trip too. They were not the only cetaceans to escort us on our way. Some playful Dall’s porpoises bow rode and leapt around us as we headed out from port. On entering Blackfish Sound, the blows of the humpbacks were seen ahead to our starboard side. Two whales swam in unison, breathing and diving in near synchronicity. On surfacing some tail (fluke) slapping was observed and one of the whales trumpeted loudly at the surface! A harbour seal peered up from the water, possibly wondering what all the fuss was about?
The afternoon continued with the whales fluking and providing us with ample opportunities to photograph their flukes for identification purposes. Our afternoon naturalist Sophia identified Black Pearl which made a reappearance along with Conger. At least two other whales were seen in the Sounds, with one doing a magnificent breach that leapt too fast for our cameras. The Dall’s came back to leap about the bow. For the bird enthusiasts, common murres, bald eagles as well as rhinoceros auklets flitted, swooped and swam around us throughout the day.
‘’Off into the wild blue yonder!’’ were Captain’s Wayne’s words as we sailed out of Telegraph Cove. Glorious sunshine greeted our 36 guests and crew as we basked in the unfolding view and the sunshine. It seemed the Dall’s porpoises were revelling in the sunshine as well. Within minutes of our departure a few were bow riding the boat!
In amongst the Plumper Islands a mature bald eagle was spotted and a harbour seal spied us momentarily before vanishing into the azure blue. We approached a rock face which had a Pigeon Guiilemot sitting in front of its nest. Some of its enough to see its enormous nest beneath it. It transpires that this is the first time in 5 years that this nest has been used by the eagles!
Passing by Stubbs Island we saw some Harbour seals lolling in the sun, some partially submerged with water. A Steller sea lion swam past them momentarily through the kelp and appeared to escape their attention. Passing through Blackfish Sound, at least 2 Humpbacks were seen with snow capped mountains as their backdrop. As one exhaled nearby, the other appeared in the distance. After some time the far away whale was identified as ‘Cutter’. The sightings continued on as shouts of ‘whale’ emanated from every corner of the boat! Another whale appeared in the distance as we sailed ahead.
As we entered the Broughton Archipelago, the distant whale was spotted again. A local researcher by the name of Jared Towers confirmed the whale was actually a Minke! The Minke’s identity was confirmed as ‘Galaxy’. When we thought that we had seen all of the whales to be seen, an Orca appeared! It was confirmed to be a resident or fish eating Orca, the first seen of the season! It was also confirmed to be an Orca which they call ‘Kaikash’. Kaikash and his brother ‘Plumper’ were orphaned some years ago. They were actually ‘adopted’ by a lone female called ‘Scimitar’! She would travel with them and actually feed them fish! Plumper was spotted briefly later near the research boat. With all the excitement of the Orca sightings, a smaller creature was seen afar in the sea. It was realized that it was a sea otter! A creature which is rarely seen in these parts and also the first of its kind seen this season!
The sun continued to blaze as we approached port. A Glaucous Wing gull swooped to skim some smolt from the water surface. The skittish salmon leapt and darted on the water surface in the dazzling light. Coming full circle, a few Dall’s porpoise splashed alongside us as we neared home. So much to see, we had the time, we had the sun, luck and the weather gods were on our side! The wide blue yonder was wild indeed!
An enduring dream to visit Canada and a certain obsession with the creature they call ‘’Blackfish’’ saw me finally here today. We cruised out on the gorgeous Johnstone Strait with the able and affable Captain Wayne. Guiding and commentary were provided by the very knowledgeable naturalist, Kyle. The boss Roger also happened to pop along to take some photos.
First on the menu were a few Dall’s porpoises that whizzed through the sea in front of us. Birds of varying species provided us with some company too. Rhinoceros auklets rested gently on the water surface and rose to fly as we approached. The eagle eyed crew spied a young Pigeon guillemot on a craggy ledge.
On approaching a rocky outcrop, the ‘rocks’ began to stir and roll gently to reveal plump and pretty Pacific harbour seals. Their bodies ranged in hues of dappled cream to grey. The haul out had approx 40 of these shy seals. The breathtaking scenery continued as we headed into Blackfish Sound, home of the fabled orca. More harbour seals were seen lolling contentedly on the rocks. Suddenly word was in that a Leviathan was in our midst! Not one, but two it turned out, two humpback whales breathing on the water surface!! After some movement on the water surface the whales began their deep dives and we were rewarded with photos of their magnificent flukes. This was also a great chance for the crew to photo-id the whales tails (flukes) to pass on to researchers for population estimates.
If this was not enough excitement, word had come in from a local boat that orca were spotted nearby. Shortly after, we began to see some increased activity ahead. Five active orca were throwing some shapes in front of us! The pod consisted of 4 adults and a baby! We were treated for the next 40 minutes to an incredible display of tail lobbing, breaching and spy hopping. Camera batteries and memory cards were exhausted as we were given ample opportunity to witness nature at its best.
Exhilarated and satisfied, we turned to make our return back to port. It turns out the wildlife had other ideas! The Humpbacks reappeared and showed us their magnificent flukes as they descended into their realm. Cruising back happily, we were escorted by more harbour porpoises that bow-rode the boat. On our approach to Telegraph Cove, Roger spotted a black bear on the shore. The hungry bear deftly turned many boulders on the beach in search of food.
We returned to shore full of amazing mental and photographic images. The trip fulfilled my dreams and more. I will be back!
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